Chapeau! – French Restaurant Review

A culinary treat—3-course French meal for $19

See also: Prix-Fixe Update, 11/15/04

I am pleased to present another French restaurant on Clement Street (see review of Clementine), with an unbeatable early-bird menu. It could be a good choice, for those who have an urge to celebrate in an upscale restaurant in these trying times—at a knockdown price.

Chapeau!
1408 Clement St. (at 15th Ave), 750-9787.
Open Tuesday through–Thursday 5–10pm, Friday & Saturday
to 10:30pm, Sunday 5–10pm. Closed Monday.

Most of us know that Chapeau is French for hat, but how many know that when an exclamation point (!) is added, it means Wow! in French? And Wow! it is when it comes to the food, and the low prices for what is offered. The room is on the small side, accommodates a maximum of 45-50. The decor is cheerful, in French taste, with interesting hats adorning the walls. You’ll also get your check in a chapeau.

Chapeau! head chef, Stephane Gregoire, was born in a small city on the north coast of France, in 1970. He graduated from the Culinary School there in 1988, and left for other climes. He apprenticed in a top British restaurant (Harvey’s) with a top chef, then cooked in the luxury hospitality industry in Switzerland, and, finally, landed in St. Martin, French West Indies, where he received the European Excellence Award.

Stephane returned to France for a few years where he cooked with several renowned chefs, one of whom was Chef of the Palais de L’Elysee (home of the President of France). Four years ago, he returned to the U.S. and worked at the Ritz Carlton in Atlanta, and now as head chef at Chapeau. Not a bad career for a French chef.

Early Dinner, $19. Every day except Friday and Saturday, 5-6pm (closed Monday). It’s worth getting there early for the 3-course meal, since they will not serve it even a few minutes after 6pm. For the week beginning December 15, the early dinner consists of:

Appetizer—organic Bloomsdale spinach & shaved fennel salad, with blood-orange dressing, & goat-cheese crostini,
or,
French onion soup,

Entree—pan-seared salmon with couscous & pine nuts, with Japanese eggplant confit & basil pesto,
or,
braised short ribs in red–wine sauce, with Brussel-sprouts fricassee, seasonal carrots, & pearl onions,

Dessert—vanilla bean crème brullee, or, classic tarte tatin with vanilla crème fraiche,
or,
classic French profiteroles.

For the rest of the evening, including Fridays & Saturdays, there are two prix-fixe dinners at Chapeau!, plus an a la carte menu. They change weekly. The ones in this review are for the week beginning December 15:

Menu 1, three courses, $28.00:

Mesclun salad, with tomato confit, tapenade crostini, & shaved parmesan
or
Green lentil soup , with truffle-oil, & crispy pancetta,

Pan-seared salmon with couscous & pine nuts, Japanese eggplant confit, & basil pesto,
or
Braised short ribs in red wine sauce , with Brussel-sprouts fricassee & pine nuts.

Choice of dessert

Menu 2, four courses, $38.00:

Rabbit terrine wrapped in Parma ham, with red cabbage chutney, & cranberry-pickled kumquat

Organic striped bass , with sweet onions & Swiss-chard fondue, appplewood smoked bacon sauce, & fried leek

Roasted duck breast with parsley-mashed potatoes, celery-root & hazelnut fricassee, & apple-cider vinegar

Choice of dessert

Vegetarian Menu, $28.00

Organic Bloomsdale spinach & shaved fennel salad, with blood-orange dressing, & goat-cheese crostini,

Fresh tagliatelles—artichoke & porcinis, 25-year-old balsamic vinegar, & shaved parmesan

Choice of dessert

A la carte menu. Some starters—French onion soup $7, Malpeque oysters on the half-shell, with red-wine vinaigrette, $1.75 each, foie gras Ballotine, with toasted brioche & spicy red-wine syrup $11, green lentil soup with truffle oil & crispy pancetta $8.50, rabbit terrine wrapped in Parma ham, with red-cabbage chutney & cranberry-pickled kumquat $9.

Some entrees—Prince Edward Island Musssels, steamed in white wine, shallots , & parsley, served with pommes frites & aioli $17, French cassoulet , with cannelloni beans, braised lamb shoulder, duck confit, & Toulouse sausages $16.50, pan-seared salmon with couscous & pine nuts, Japanese eggplant confit, & basil pesto $18, roasted duck breast with parsley-mashed potatoes, celery-root and hazelenut fricassee, & Apple cider vinegar $20, 8-oz filet mignon steak au poivre with green peppercorn sauce, Yukon gold potato gratin, & French green beans $24.

Desserts, all $6.50—except for cheese plate $8, and warm chocolate cake with banana flambé & rum & raisin ice cream $7—e.g., crème brullee, caramelized apple tart with crème fraiche, trio of sorbet with fruit compote & candied almonds.

Wine. The owner, Philippe Gardelle, knows his wines. He also has lots of them, some 61 pages full (yes, sixty-one!) – from all parts of France and California They include “grand cru” wines up to $400 a bottle! But there is a full page of wines $20 and under, a page of wines $26 and under ,and several pages of wine $30 and $40 and under. Wine by the glass is served in 1/2 and full glasses beginning with $3.50 half-glass and $7 full glass. The half-glass is a good idea for those wanting to have more than one wine with the meal, and keep the price within reason. There are also half-bottles of wine in the $16-25 range. There are only two beers, Samuel Adams, $4, and a top Belgian beer, $6. But, if all is too much for your budget, ask for tap water. Philippe won’t turn you out. But if you want good advice about wine, he’ll match you with a wine that suits your wallet. And his choice will always be a good one, regardless of price.

Recipe of the Day:
Chapeau’s French Onion Soup. (For 6 persons).
Ingredients:
- 4 medium white onions (Julienne)
- 1 sprig rosemary
- 1/2 cup flour
- 1/2 cup sugar
- 1/2 bottle dry white wine
- 1/3 gallon (a little over 5 cups) chicken stock
- 1/3 gallon veal or beef stock (a little over 5 cups)
- 1/2 lb butter
- croutons (3 per serving)
- grated gruyere cheese

In a large pan, brown the butter, then add onions and rosemary, sprinkle with salt to release water. Then, brown onions slowly, until golden, don’t let them burn. Reduce until almost dry. Sprinkle flour over onions, stir well. Cook 5 minutes more. Add chicken and veal stocks, bring to a boil, and then simmer. Add sugar, reduce by about 1/2. Season with salt and pepper. Ladle soup into an oven-proof soup bowl, top with croutons, then cover with plenty of grated gruyere (so that when baked, the top will have a golden crust). Bake at 350F for 10 minutes, until golden brown.
Enjoy!