Gary Danko

Gary Danko
800 North Point (at Hyde), 415 749-2060
open seven days, 5:30-10pm.

For years I've been writing about “Affordable Restaurants in San Francisco”. In the later editions of my book “San Francisco on a Shoestring”, I included two sections, Splurge and Big Splurge, to cover special occasions when a normally thrifty diner might be willing to spend more than usual.

In considering a Big Splurge restaurant for this review, I chose Gary Danko, which I had visited before. I consider it the best restaurant in San Francisco. Other critics have called it the best in the Bay Area, or in California, and one survey called it one of the best ten in the entire U.S.A.

What is so great about Gary Danko? I might say, everything. First, the food is great. I don't know where one can find better appetizers, main courses, and desserts – not at Masa’s, not Ritz Carlton, not Fleur de Lys, not La Folie, to mention three top restaurants in the City where I have dined before. But, next to the food and its presentation, is the knowledgeable and helpful staff. I've never had a waiter who was as knowledgeable as the last one at Gary Danko. He knew the composition of every dish, its relation to other dishes, and to the needs of the diners before him. One more plus was the waiter who served the cheese plate. He offered a choice at table side from a large board of some 25 cheeses, some quite exotic. He knew the composition and taste of each cheese, and, recommended 3-4 to each diner who chose this dish.

Service was impeccable. Our party of six was served each course at exactly the same time. When one of our party ordered an extra fish dish, service was timed so that all ran smoothly. Water glasses were refilled without asking. One of my pet peeves in many restaurants, even expensive ones, is that often one diner is served an appetizer while another diner gets his main course or dessert. There was also a complimentary small appetizer, salmon mouse with caviar, and a tray of fine after-dinner sweets. Nice touches. One other great plus was the leisurely pace of the dinner. All at our table of six had three courses, three with coffee or cappuccino. We dined for over three hours. There was never a feeling of being rushed.

Prices – $58.00 for three courses, $68.00 for four courses, and $78 for five courses. And note this – one can choose the three-five courses from any appetizer, any main course, and any dessert! In other words, one can dine on appetizers, main course, or desserts alone, if one wishes. On both occasions, I found that a three-course menu was more than enough for even a hungry diner. Of course, a four-course menu that includes a fish and meat course, or a dessert and cheese, is not to be disdained if one can manage so much food. There is also a fixed five course Tasting Menu for $78.00, and corresponding wines for each course for an additional $42.00. Considering the quality of the food, the impeccable service, the knowledge and dedication of the staff, I consider Gary Danko a bargain. The same food and service in Paris would probably cost at least double.

Reservations are not only necessary, but must be made two months in advance! Before visiting the restaurant, one can consult with members of the staff by phone, or by email, on wine, food, special diets etc. They're very helpful. One should calculate about $100 per person for a 3-course meal, including a low-priced wine. One can also order a soft drink ($3.50) or imported beer, e.g., Pilsner Urquell, $6.00.

Appetizers – there are nine which include fresh red pumpkin soup with mussels and basil oil, glazed oysters with Osetra (Iranian) caviar, foie Gras and duck confit terrene with pear chutney, seared foie Gras with Fuji apples and blackberries, lobster salad with persimmon and chestnut mousse, risotto with white truffles.

Fish and Seafood, eight dishes, including roast Maine lobster with chanterelle mushrooms, mushroom dusted sea scallops with butternut squash puree, chickpea crusted grouper with roasted vegetables, pancetta-wrapped frog legs with potato and lentils, horseradish crusted salmon with dilled cucumbers, pan-steamed shellfish with Thai red curry and jasmine rice.

Meat and Game Birds, seven dishes, including Moroccan-spiced squab with orange-cumin carrots, juniper-crusted venison with cranberry compote, pan-seared beef filet with bacon risotto and roasted shallot, roasted quail stuffed with wild mushrooms and foie Gras, herb-crusted lamb loin with vegetables and mint oil.

Vegetarian Dishes – vegetable tart with artichokes and quenelle of goat cheese, or vegetable pot au feu with roasted pears and turnips in a Madeira-mushroom broth.

Cheese – a selection of farmhouse and artisan cheeses, table side served from tray of 25 varieties, 3-4 cuts per plate.

Caviar Service – one ounce – Iranian osetra $65, California white sturgeon $75, Beluga $95.

Desserts – 10 choices, including trio of crème brulee’ with cookies, baked chocolate soufflé’ with two sauces, baked non-cholesterol Grande Marnier soufflé’ with raspberry sauce, chestnut Monte Blanca with honey-rum ice cream, roasted pears with nutmeg ice cream, French-Moroccan ice-cream sandwiches, sorbet sampler with cookies. Also, prepared table side, at $6.00 additional per person, flambéed bananas with marshmallow, vanilla ice-cream, and fudge sauce.

Beverages – coffee $2.85, espresso $2.75/4.00, cappuccino $3.50, tea (pot) $4.25, chocolate $3.50, sodas $3.50.

Beer, Wine – imported beer, e.g., Amstel, Urquell Pilsner $6.00. Wine can be on the expensive side, but there are several low-priced wines of good quality available.

Tasting Menu, five courses, $78.00, includes glazed oysters with caviar, horseradish-crusted salmon, sautéed guinea-hen breast , a selection of cheeses, and roasted pears with nutmeg ice cream. Wine-pairing for each dish $42.00.