ISA

ISA
3324 Steiner St (Lombard/Chestnut), 415 567-9588
5:30–9:45pm Mon–Thurs, to 10:30pm Fri–Sat
Prix-fix Mon–Thurs before 7pm

See also Isa Update (5/15/05).

ISA is crammed in on the south side of Steiner's restaurant row, but is spacious once found. In addition to about 40 seats, there is patio seating for an additional 50, with heat lamps for cool days. Decor is elegant with, of course, cloth napkins and table candle-lamps.

The chef-owner Luke Sung received a second nomination as the "Rising Star Chef of the Year" by the prestigious James Beard Foundation. Before opening ISA, named after his daughter, Sung cooked at Masa's, The Ritz Carlton, and La Folie, three of the best, and most expensive, in the City.

Prices are a little higher than in most of my "affordable" restaurants, but are relatively low for this level of cuisine. Main dishes in equivalent level of cuisines can be up to double ISA's price. One feature of the restaurant is their policy of dish-sharing. For example, If 3–4 persons eat, the appetizers, main courses, and desserts are served in appropriate portions. Recently, my wife and I shared a dish of black mussels, arugula salad with shaved fennel and quail eggs, and a main dish of truffled risotto, all for under $30 (plus tax and tip). Had we been very hungry, we would have ordered a luscious dessert for $6.

Most dishes are creations of Luke Sung, and some are sensational.

ISA will be opening a second restaurant around the corner from them, on Chestnut Street, specializing in small plates Asian-style, French-fusion, with lower prices.

Prix-Fix dinner, $21, Mon-Thurs. before 7pm. Choice of three appetizers (e.g., yellow fin tuna ceviche or asparagus soup with truffle oil), choice of three main dishes (e.g., pan-roasted Fulton-Valley chicken or truffled risotto), and choice of five desserts (e.g., warm chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream, or vanilla bean creme brulee).

Appetizers, include crab salad with celery, mango, & fuji apple $10, aragula salad with shaved fennel, radish, cucumber, & quail eggs $8, pan-roasted black mussels with shallots, garlic, & white wine $9, lobster broth with tiger prawns & fresh tarragon, split $10.

Main Courses, include pan-roasted Fulton Valley chicken with herbs, lemon, under crispy skin, & mashed potatoes $13, Northern halibut a la plancha with beets, orange, & marinated radishes $14, potato-wrapped sea bass with brown butter, capers, lemon, & parsley $14.50 (sensational!), truffled risotto with mushroom-fricasee $13, grilled flat-iron steak with watercress, potatoes, moutarde verte, & red-wine sauce $16, rack of lamb with fava beans, peas, & mint $16.50, medley of sauteed vegetables $8.

Desserts, include passion-fruit soup with mango $6, semifreddo amaretti $5, flourless chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream $6, cheese plate with Gorgonzola piquant, walnuts and fruit $9.

Beverages. Beer $4.50, on high side unless one chooses the Czech Pilsner. Wine is expensive at $7–8 glass, and almost $20 for a half-bottle. Corkage is $15 (!). When we were there on a weekday night, only one table out of 15 had wine on it.

Comment: When one considers that one can buy excellent Sonoma, Australian, and Chilean wines for $4–5 a bottle at places like Trader Joe's or Cost Plus, wouldn't restaurants like ISA make a good profit if they charged $4–5 glass and, say, $9–10 a half-bottle and still make 200–300% above cost? I'll bet most tables would be ordering wine, since the food is so good it begs for it.