ISA

ISA
3324 Steiner St (between Lombard & Chestnut St), 415 567-9588
open Mon-Sat 5:30-10:30 pm, closed Sunday. Three-course Early Dinner, Mon-Thurs before 7pm.

See also Lou's previous review of ISA.

I first visited ISA about five years ago, shortly after it opened. I was intrigued to learn that the chef-owner, Luke Sung, had served as sous-chef in several of San Francisco’s high-priced French restaurants, and that he was a two-time James Beard Award Nominee for Rising New Chef. I was also impressed by the very modest prices for the quality of the food, and their policy of urging diners to share dishes family-style for two or more persons. My wife and I shared an appetizer and a main course, and were quite well served! Another way to go for two diners who want to trim costs is to order one prix-fixe meal and one appetizer or main course.

I was pleasantly surprised when I visited ISA a few days ago, to find a few more pluses, e.g., a very pleasant patio with a sophisticated heating system, which made for pleasant dining on a cold and rainy evening. Another plus was the addition of a three-course early dinner prix-fixe menu Monday through Thursday – appetizer, main course, and dessert – for $19.95, a very modest price for this quality of food. The a la carte appetizers are ample for two persons, as are the main courses, which are about half the price of those in the restaurants where Master-Chef Sung cooked before. Many of the dishes are Sung’s own creations.

Early dinner, Mon-Thurs, before 7 p.m. Consists of a choice of five appetizers from the menu, e.g., baby arugula salad with celery, mango, and fuji apple; grilled asparagus with small white beans, tapenade and reggiano; baked laura chenel goat cheese with pesto, tomato, and pine nuts. Then, a choice of four main courses – pan-roasted Fulton Valley chicken with herbs and mashed potatoes, truffled risotto with mushrooms and reggiano, pasta with crushed black truffles, tomato, basil, and parmesan, and a medley of sautéed vegetables. Desserts are a choice from the dessert menu, e.g., grapefruit granite, crème brulee, semifreddo amaretti (ice cream).

Appetizers include smooth asparagus soup with fresh herbs and truffle oil $5.00, lobster broth with tiger prawns and fresh tarragon $7.00, butter lettuce salad with Bartlett pears, Roquefort, and candied walnuts $8.00, Dungeness crab salad with celery, mango, and fuji apple $10.00.

Main courses include seared dayboat scallops with baby artichokes, tomato, olives, and basil $14.00, potato-wrapped sea bass with capers, lemon, and parsley $14.00 (highly recommended), seared Sonoma artisan foie gras with strawberries and rhubarb marmalade, and a custard brioche $15.00, roasted rack of lamb with baby zucchini, fava beans, and potato julienne $17.00, truffled risotto with mushrooms and cheese $12.00, tortellini pasta with crushed black truffles, tomato, basil, and parmesan $10.00, a medley of sautéed vegetables $8.00.

Desserts include grapefruit granite (sorbet) $5.00, crème brulee $6.00, chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream $6.50.

Wine and beer – high at $7.00-8.00 glass, and bottles in the high $20s and much more. Pilsner Urquell beer on draft is a good deal at $4.95 for a tall glass. Corkage $13.00, is on high side. Dessert wines $8.00-7.00, e.g., port, Madeira, Muscat.

Beverages include coffee (which is very good) $2.50, cappuccino or latte $3.00, espresso $3.

Comment: The food at Isa is superb and relatively low-priced for its quality, especially the prix-fixe menu, but I wish they had wine prices that match their modest food prices. Also, a bit lower corkage.