Lux

Lux
2263 Chestnut St (between Pierce and Scott Sts),
415 567-2998, 5:30-10pm, closed Sunday.

Lux is a sister restaurant of Isa, which is just around the corner, and is part owned by the same acclaimed chef. The food definitely bears his stamp, but the menu is different in that it emphasizes seafood, and does not have a prix-fixe early dinner, as does Isa. Prices for appetizers, main course, and desserts are the same for both places. Lux also serves plates family-style, which if chosen carefully, can make for quite an affordable meal for two or more. Recently, two of us made a good meal of sautéed asparagus ($9), shiitake mushroom noodles ($9), and chocolate cake with Chantilly ($7).

Lux is a fairly large restaurant with some 60 seats. Décor is sleek and modern. Tables do not have tablecloths, but there are cloth napkins. Service is impeccable and personal. Wines are overpriced – most are $8 for a 2/3-filled glass, and corkage exorbitant at $15. While the food is half the price of restaurants in the same class of cuisine, wine, coffee and tea are too expensive. Lux calls its cuisine “Asian haute”, while Isa appears to be only French.

This raises the question, what does “affordable” mean? Actually, it is related to what a person earns, or feels that he can spend for a meal. For some, an occasional meal at McDonald’s or Burger King is all they can afford, while others might consider a $50 meal affordable. The frequency of eating in restaurants is also determined by what one considers affordable in each case. For example, an important restaurant reviewer considers a meal as “moderate” when the entrée is not more than $17 (!).

When I use the word “affordable”, I try to strike an average earner. I call Isa and Lux affordable, even though they are on my borderline. But the quality is so good that the food is well worth the price.

The menu at Lux changes often, but here are excerpts from a recent one.

Appetizers and sides include, sautéed pea shoots with garlic butter $5.00, sautéed haricot verts with garlic $6.00, sautéed baby bok Choy $6.00, baby arugula salad with white peaches and goat cheese $8.00 (recommended), halibut sashimi with leeks, pine nuts & citrus $9.00, truffled cheese fondue $9.00, sautéed asparagus with pancetta $9.00 (recommended), spicy ahi tuna tartare tower with avocado and taro root chips ($11).

Main courses include shiitake mushroom noodles with garlic and olives $9.00, sweet and sour black tiger prawns tempura with greens $12, seared dayboat scallops with shiitake mushrooms & truffle jus $12, pan-roasted halibut with fava beans and ginger soy $13.00, grilled flat-iron steak brochette with salsa and pomme frites $13, sugar-glazed baby back ribs with papaya slaw mint & peanuts $14.00.

Desserts include vanilla bean and green tea gelato $5.00, leeched and raspberry sherbet $5.00, buttermilk panna cotta with huckleberries, port and orange $6, chocolate cake (baked to order 7 minutes) with Chantilly cream $7.00 (recommended).

Beverages include special teas at $4.00 each, coffee $2.50, wine most at $8.00 a glass, bottles at $33.00-60.00, corkage $15.00. All too high. Pilsner Urquell beer $4.50 (acceptable price).